Boating to Brazzaville: How to Cross from Big to Little Congo
REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO
From Kinshasa, you can see the highlights of the capital across the river. After all, Brazzaville is just a stone’s throw away.
Brown rapids gush between the two Congos, and though it’s only a 15 minute flight and an eight minute boat ride (don’t ask me how that math works, but I experienced both), it’s the “formalities” that turns the speedy boat trip from DRC to the Republic of the Congo into a process.
How is it that sometimes, getting to particular places just happens while for other goals, getaways and get togethers, it can be a gigantic effort. I’m amazed at the lengths we go to make the big stuff happen, while neighbouring cravings, can-dos and countries can sometimes slip into near misses, or oblivion.
To me, Brazzaville seemed calmer, cleaner and more conscientious, like a little sister of the boisterous Kinshasa. Less metropolitan meant infrequent traffic standstills and increased safety, yet fewer outing options - there’s always tradeoffs. At the last minute, I got lucky and had one quick introduction that changed the trajectory of my time. I’ve learned that having locals connections, whether indigenous or those that have settled, adds colours to one’s exploration. So instead of venturing solo, I had a homebase. My hosts were Lebanese and lucky for me, that meant great food and good coffee. Amani and her husband were as gorgeous as they were gentle and gracious. They’re the kind of couple who (actually) gets along, where rolling of the eyes is mainly for dramatic effect versus a negative insinuation. Isn’t it refreshing to see and be a part of harmonious energy?
Customs on arrival at the Republic of the Congo (aka small Congo or Congo-Brazzaville) were slick and smooth. I went directly from the pier to the air conditioned car, while the escort went in and processed the paperwork on my behalf.
After a quick lunch of mloukya leaves (aka dongo dongo) with chicken, rice and spicy hot peppers, I hit the town. Of the buildings and monuments, I quite appreciated the Basilique Sainte Anne du Congo. Built at the end of the Second World War, this was part of the campaign undertaken by France to rebuild public infrastructure. Mass was in session when we toured and I found it so heartwarming to see spaces of serenity and submission being used regularly and robustly.
What motivates us to seek connection with the Divine I wondered. Is it when the going gets rough, when our Beloved transitions to another realm or when our fingers are crossed for a particular outcome, or, is it when we’re delighted with the deal, the sudden promotion … or, perhaps it’s in spite of all of this?
As with many markets in Africa, umbrellas and kiosks dotted the streets while folks squatted to showcase goods from fashion and fish to pots and plants. No matter how much or little was on display and how unsanitary the landscape, things for sale were organized in piles and patterns. The potholes and patchy ground created a smell that wafted above us as we wandered. While this can seem off-putting to some, I enjoy perusing these places - the hustle of the hustlers, the reality of the raw routine and the energy of the entourages. I could easily spend hours meandering more markets, like I’ve done in Côte d'Ivoire, Mali, Senegal, Germany and the Solomon Islands to list a few far flung fairs with flair.
What is seen as one’s need can be another’s luxury. Yet often here, like the lives of many of us who’ve stepped freshly off the boat, what is elemental stays elemental. Striving to sit in a sweet spot when it comes not only to material assets, but also in how we tailor our time, toil and thought seems like a worthy ideal. #Balance.
In Brazzaville, I made cursory circuits of the big market of Marché Total and the arrondissement of Poto-Poto where a school to foster the natural talent of locals with little background in painting and European fine arts was established by the French amateur painter Pierre Lods. In Moungali, we took in the small but famous Grand Mosque that still attracts many and along the way, I smiled at the resourcefulness of humans when I saw a van converted into a photobooth (though not sure I’d venture in there for a headshot)!
Even though I missed the chance to cross the river on my first trip to DRC, I’m grateful that this time, the little Congo featured on the itinerary. In so doing, I’m reminded that viewpoints from the little siblings can keep us lucid and not lackadaisical as we look out at our everyday landscapes.
May we take stock of and honour what’s near, far, tall, small, beside us and boat rides away,