Leveraging Levity: When the Small Stuff is the Big Stuff
TUVALU
I left the lagoon feeling light and open to the outskirts. After spotting a shark, hopping and walking between islets, and enjoying a boat ride that made it seem like the waterways were mine for the day, I returned even lighter.
There are those experiences where, even over the course of a few hours, you return feeling like a little cellular spring cleaning has happened inside you - a levity that delayers the drama of daily disturbances. Exploring Tuvalu was like a weight loss program in which, unbeknownst to me surreptitiously, some junk files were removed.
When I returned, the human-made pier was a hub of activity. Kids were squealing, chasing one another and catapulting themselves into the waters, their quick reprieve from the sun’s strength. Many men were making their way to set up shop for the evening - it was clearly the time to fish! From kiddos learning how to harvest the tiny prizes to the folks who brought in the catch of the day, there were a lot of lines casted and a lot of people (and fish) watching to do.
Disembarking from my boat, I saw Celiaco, a jolly mate who seemed to have the sea on his lap. Adeptly he removed the fins, gizzards and then took a bite to showcase the freshness of the fish.
From little lads to the veterans, the fishing scene here was a daily output and outlet.
I sat on the steps of sandbags, watching the community come together to chat, chill and catch. Soon, I was in a full blown conversation with Lelemia, a native of Tuvalu who was now living in New Zealand. The man I met moments ago, graciously offered to take me fishing and site seeing, had we more time.
I am amazed and comforted by the genuine hospitality that strangers showcase. It’s like folks see themselves as ambassadors of their land, each stepping up to play a role in enabling the visitor to see their home - perhaps, so we may see it with similar sweet sentiment as they do. I wondered how I could up my game for those exploring my backyard. Whether we’re at home or out and about, aren’t we all travelers on a journey after all?
Lelemia spoke of the challenges of finding sustainable work on the island, how he as a teacher had to study and now work abroad. He educated me about the falevatia washroom work, the water crisis, the ‘dottv’ deal and the treasures of this atoll . He also introduced me to the Pandanus. At first glance, I thought it was a frozen treat for the kids - then realized it was a gift that Nature offered for us all. Fibrous with a flavour that seemed to have a perfumy aftertaste, this was my first encounter with a fruit that, in its entirety, has an important functional role in daily life, including mimicking dental floss!
As the sun began to set, I slurped up the last views of this show.
Back on my bike, I wondered how tiny but mighty Tuvalu felt in that moment. This was a land I would never had seen had I not left to explore the outskirts of my own life. Perhaps this is what those from Hong Kong and China had done when Tuvalu and others sold citizenship, and while the passport scheme “failed to generate any significant revenues”, its mark on the make up of the land is easily visible in the smattering of (very limited) restaurant options today.
Lost in thought, I stumbled upon a small service.
Not surprising, since this is a deeply religious nation. Case in point: we were all forced to a halt, so that 6:30-7pm could be safeguarded (by a police officer). Those not pausing for prayer time could be subjected to a fine of 100 AUD.
My last encounters in Tuvalu were filled with gifts. Homemade donuts from my host Lillian delighted me as my teeth sunk into a light bite. And in that moment, the small stuff was the big stuff. After the treat, I headed to the airport, as did many others in Tuvalu. After all, this was the time to come and hang out, watch planes, sell crafts and … as I soon found out, play games!
The four craft ladies who were there to sell their stuff, spent more time playing games than generating income it seemed. While I was invited to sit in the circle and watch up close how the local game of Laami was played, I had to be sure not to get in the way of their fervour or fun.
What a slant in seeing the world this was. Transactions occurred almost as an interruption to the play that was their priority. I watched as yes indeed, they sold stuff on the sidelines, but their focus was strongly centred on their sisterhood. What a way to leverage levity! Perhaps they were onto something…
As the megaphone announced the time to board, Kinotasi gifted me handmade earrings, a local candy necklace - and a crown. Who knew that I’d leave Tuvalu like royalty!
May we constantly see the strength and sustenance that the small stuff sprinkles into our lives,
You are one lucky person!