Timeless and Tucked Away: Treasures in Samoa

SAMOA

Literally meaning “giant swimming hole”, the teal To Sua offers an underground playground that’s perfect for backflips, belly flops and basking

On every itinerary, To Sua is showcased as a don’t-you-dare-skip-this spot. To access the trench, I braved a steep descent down a dilapidated and somewhat slippery ladder before sliding into the aqua green cool waters. People putzed around in this prime (though somewhat covert) underground real estate. Entering or exiting the swim hole made the embracing Fagaoneone (“white sand”) beach at ground level feel like it wasn’t the main floor, but rather, Nature’s penthouse suite - definitely a flip on the usual frame of reference.

The lush vegetation hovers above, hugs the walls and overhangs with vines

The blue perimeter fence forewarned of a plunge that could be taken, only with preparation and precaution. After all, this swim hole was created from volcanic activity where a large lava tube collapsed. Translated: this is one of the few swim spots that’s connected to the ocean by an underwater cave!

My eyes traced what seemed to be a (lopsided) heart shape outline of the ground. Like an orifice to another dimension, it surreptitiously slanted to give way to this gem. As I splashed around with strangers in the 30m subterrain sinkhole, I wondered how much of my own dimensions and depth I’ve swam in. How can we know what lurks beneath a land, lady or lad? How incredible it is that signs like this in nature often hold up a mirror for these requisite and robust reflections …

Top L: Sitting in a fale at the surrounding beach; Top R + Bottom L: the decent down into the trench; Bottom R: Green grass at ground level suddenly gives way to the swimming hole below

Having my fill of frolicking at To Sua and perusing the panoramic view, I continued on the circuit.

As I did, I wondered how many treasures lay below us that we’re oblivious to, both on planet earth and within its people. Equally so, revisiting what really is the ‘ground level’ highlighted how shifting perspectives can elevate an experience.

From the ‘main floor’, the main attraction of To Sua isn’t easily appreciated …

Samoa is a country that actually has heaps of stuff to offer. On the main island of Upolu, I perused art centres, blue holes, Baha’i prayer gardens, churches, cultural shows, waterfronts and waterfalls before moving on to the sister island of Savai’i.

Top: The Baha'i Worship temple, gardens and followers; Middle: pottery and traditional art at the Tiapapata art centre; Bottom L + mid: the uniquely paved two strip road and initial views of the centre; Bottom R: Apia Samoa Temple

Tiapapata art centre just near the Baha’i House of Worship is a beautiful off the beaten path gallery and cafe that showcases local work

Following these spontaneous pit stops, I drove on. The island’s perimeter afforded views that reminded me of Australia’s Great Ocean Road, LA’s coastline and other more infamous circuitous courses. Here too, each bend presented a clean and picturesque backdrop. Surprising for me, was to see the diversity and number of churches that peppered the path.

The plethora of churches that punctuated many pit stops

The most impressive though, was the Immaculate Conception Cathedral in Apia that formed the focal point of the harbour views, and arguably, the lives of many Samoans.

Recently rebuilt recently rebuilt at an estimated cost of ST13 million, the Cathedral is the limelight of the capital and its harbour

In spite of having no side walks, I managed to stumble upon roadside BBQs which seemed to be ‘a thing’ on the weekend. Anyone could come out, pop a tent, bring their pots, pans and yummy creations. My discovery of the local Uncle Johnny’s ice cream was also such a pleasant surprise that I pulled over (more than) a few times roadside to lick up the variety of flavours I could find.

Some of the chefs and backdrops where I enjoyed meals and munching

From insta frames, local parks and rainbows, there was much to find glee in. One of my favs was the Giant Clam Sanctuary, equipped with a snorkel and fins, I could marvel again at the Creator’s grandeur within our underwater world.

Top: Roadside frames, the city park and catching a rainbow; Middle: Fillipsia waterfalls and nearby water views; Bottom: Grand Clam Sanctuary on an overcast day

With so much to do and see, it was soon time for some refuel. The masseuse at the local parlour laughed at how tight my neck and shoulders were. I too was amazed at how much we hold onto, even in these ‘downtime’ moments.

How do we excavate out the true treasures of our lives I wondered. For what meets the eye and that which lingers in the layers below, are we aware of the gems within us? Imagining ourselves as a site for exploration, what would be the top ten tourist attractions within our own being - the iconic overt ones and those that are tucked away, only for those that are invited to dive deeper?

With these thoughts tumbling, I wandered past the clock tower to the local fish market to check out the catch of the day.

These dudes were displaying parrot fish, unicorn fish, lobster and tuna

The lilac sky had shades of coral peeping out from below - or was it the other way around? The shifting sights in Samoa from what seemed hidden to that which was tangible reminded me of the constant seesaw between the exoteric and esoteric - perhaps herein lies the timeless treasure to behold …

The centre point of Apia, a roundabout I frequented often as my musings swirled on

May we be aware of, behold and bolster the beauties of our world and ourselves from core to sky,