Two Lions and Some Crocs: Up Close with Wildlife in Senegambia
THE GAMBIA/SENEGAL
No sooner had I crossed the border by foot from The Gambia, did the adventures begin in Senegal. Fathala Wildlife Reserve was one of those things that came to me like the gems one sees when you’re taking a break from the grind. I admit, my research was half-baked at best for this trip – to the point that many may not have even felt secure enough to start traipsing across West Africa without key logistical pieces locked in. Alas, for those who would’ve taken the toil and time to sift through reviews of what to do, this surely would be starred as a ‘nowhere else in the world’ adventure. I learned about it serendipitously during a four hour lunch expedition in Banjul, Gambia. One introductory conversation topic to another landed on the fact that, just a stone throw away from the border was a guided walking tour, with lions.
Yup, just you (and 14 other humans) with the Kings and Queens of the Jungle (along with five local lion trainers), c’est tout. I’ve had my fair share of being on safari though the majesty of the wild can continue to awe and amaze - particularly when you’re standing right behind it (see the yellow arrows)!
The walking tour wasted no time. A short stroll into the bush, et voila, the lion couple was sitting side by side, ready to be photographed with each of us. One by one, we stood a foot behind them clicking poses crouching and standing.
Local lads managed the queues and intermittently teased the King, getting a growl or two to remind us of the reality of their power.
Then came the walking, where each of us trailed only slightly behind their morning stroll. When it was my turn, the lioness snuggled into her mate resembling that older couple who still saunters the beachline, immediately tugging at our heartstrings of the Hallmark moment they conjure. Then, just at the moment when the guide encouraged me to get closer, Madam Lioness decided to stop and take a tinkle - with a quick jumping-jack move, I dodged her release. My heart skipped a beat as the Lioness glanced over her shoulder at me, her tail within touching distance of my hand - and me!
What is fear, where does it come from so stealthily and how does it shape if we shy away or tackle life?
I’ve often thought of what worries me. While there might be specks of motivation therein, usually this energy can be deeply draggy and dark. Lighter and lesser impactful versions can offer a burst of adrenaline, tantalizing and catalyzing desired change. Increase its reach and rigor, then fear sometimes can ruin, rearrange and derange. ‘Conquering’ fears seem to call upon brute force, yet often, it seems to be more a softening and surrendering.
An emotion of provocative power, I pondered over the relationship between fear and how we choose to journey through life knowing and feeling its impact. Perhaps walking behind two lions isn’t for everyone, but the ‘fear’ I felt in that brief flare, paled in comparison to some of the sentiments that have seriously stumped me in what others might see as minutiae in life.
Bladder relieved, the lioness gracefully, gently, regally and authoritatively assumed her position aside the lion. Arriving at the anointed tree, he took the command and swiftly leapt atop a thick branch, draping himself like an expensive soft sofa throw. Again, we each took turns being paparazzied. There’s a photo where I’ve got a classic Colgate smile, thumbs up … meanwhile (unbeknownst to me in that moment), the lion is standing on the branch a few feet above me staring down at me, his tongue sticking out ... How can we fear things we can’t even see?
Perhaps it was touching the crocodiles the day before that desensitized me. In Gambia, one of the (few) attractions was the crocodile park. Like the cubs in Senegal that are trained from four months of age onwards, the crocs are raised, fed and cared for in a manner that enables closer proximity with humans.
Like lions, crocodiles live in captivity much longer than in the wild. While the lions were fed two days ago (7 donkeys for 5 lions), the crocs we visited were fed 3 days ago with 250kg of fish (for the 100 crocodiles at the sanctuary). Apparently a sign of good luck, Charlie the albino croc was out and I touched the 24 year old multiple times, more like he was a monument at a museum instead of a reptile who was capable of dismembering me. Mouth gaping wide open or mid movement, these animals will just stop dead in their tracks, easily dispelling trepidation of touching their tails.
If we can learn ways in which to override fear with superstars of the wild, I wondered about the ways in which we could walk through life leaving many if not all of our (unnecessary, irrational, limiting) fears behind. Perhaps that would be one step in keeping our our mental health in check.
If humans can negotiate with lions and crocodiles, imagine what we can do with our innermost thoughts and fears …
I didn’t plan on this close contact (if I did, my mom def wouldn’t have given the green light to go!) but when you travel like this, unknown adventures and opportunities arrive on scene. So far, this trip has the recurring theme of how contact with other contacts can add varying degrees of value in life.
From stumbling upon must-see sites to multidimensionally moving moments, this semi-spontaneous spree has reinforced the GPS inside of me while trusting that the winds around me will lead to where I need to be.
May we overcome our fears so we can fully soak up the beauty of (wild)life,
My heart skipped numerous beats as I read about your awe inspiring experience. You are indeed a fearless queen! I thoroughly enjoyed this read.