A "Liver" of Life: A Dubious Daytrip
SOLOMON ISLANDS
“Ya, we should get you back in time,” he said with an air of island style reassurance. Roderick Bay was a 90 minute banana boat ride away, a small enclave on neighbouring Nggela Sule Island. Prior to the move to Honiara, the British had established their capital on this island at Tulagi where, to this day, there remains no Wi-Fi, power or roads for cars (because there aren’t any)! While many islanders travelled to the mainland of Guadalcanal daily to sell their goods, their return to these outer islands were in the evenings, when the local boats would wait until they were (over)full. Not the safest nor even plausible option. The main boatman Patrick stared at me, “so, you come with us, on our day trip, it’s best for you”. He seemed earnest in his desire to ensure I saw some outskirts, and “the real beauty of Solo”.
With an international flight departing the Solomon Islands at 4pm (and knowing the next available flight out would be over a week away if this one was missed), the plan was totally tenuous already. His ETA to return to the mainland at 2:30pm with a taxi standing by to whisk me to the airport, arriving by the 3:20pm boarding time was, from a Western world lens, technically doable - though definitely dubious. I double and triple checked the plan with Patrick on subsequent days, and decided that this island deserved a gander.
We were packed and ready to rumble at the anointed 8am, though Patrick was unreachable and no where to be found. Someone spotted him on a nearby fishing boat a while later and after some animated fuel discussions by the boatmen, we were off an hour later.
Island time in action made me wonder how the day was going to unfold, but somehow, I had faith that he’d come through.
How is it that our gut gives us collateral info on important intel when we need it? And how/where/when/why do we place our trust where we do … can’t say that I could pinpoint the details, but I can say that I took things in stressless stride for this soiree.
The tardiness was timed perfectly to get a glimpse of a pod of dolphins playfully arching into the waters! The sparkles atop the waves, the islands dotting the horizon (which are in the clip) and the fortune to see these fun-loving creatures (they were video shy) was a nod to reaffirm today’s outing.
Slicing through Savo Sound sometime later, we cut the motor to see the volcanic island of Savo, nearby Sandfly island and Malaita, the most populous island a far look away.
As we hugged the jagged coastline, the water colours began to resemble a palette of blues. Against these shades, seeing the MS World Discoverer for the first time, we snapped shots quickly - not realizing that she would be our playground for the rest of the afternoon!
As one of the top 10 coolest shipwrecks in the world, this cruise ship was made in 1974 for millionaires to travel to Antarctica and the like. Serendipitously, Claudia the German purser who sailed over 40 trips on this very ship had come to Gela to view “what was really a love boat”. She’d met her Filipino husband on deck and though the Captain insisted to marry them at sea as he’d done for many, they opted to tie the knot in the Philippines so her family could be present.
Though she wasn’t on the vessel when it hit the reef, she felt that, “the ship could have been spared, but because of the civil war, the Captain tried to get it as close to the land as possible to save the ~140 passengers, before it capsized”. Forty years ago, she recounted, “it cost $1000 USD/day to be on board”. As we stood at the water’s edge, she scrolled through photos on her phone, showcasing herself amongst the crew on the upper deck. Like a tugboat that tumbles over in toddler’s bath, lying on its starboard side just meters from the beach, the permanently tilted boat now serves a different purpose. I scanned the various levels. The pool, bar and rooms now have plants growing out of it and it seemed like soon, a Smurf, elves or hobbits might stroll on by.
I take my time to warm up to what meets my eyes. Attached at the apex of this ship wreck is a zip line requiring a Tarzan type tumble into the turquoise waters below! Thanks to the moral support of three lads from the US Marines - Jake, Peter and Paul - I climbed up the bamboo ladder that hugged the ship’s side. Surrounded by safe hands, I peered into the levels of rust and remains, imagining their former glory, much like how James Cameron painted the scene for the famous wreck on a maiden voyage. Juxtaposed with loss and ruin was the brightness of green gushing up and sprawling out, as if chlorophyll was seeking the sun in real time. The unfortunate events seemed to soften not only because there was no loss of life, but also, that this artistic scene now offered livelihood to the locals, along with squealing, joyful fun for the rest of us!
Paul tugged on the pulley to bring the handle bar close. After a quick “do this, then that, then leap off the boat and don’t forget to let go before it gets too shallow”, he was off. From the wreck, he swished towards the beach, releasing then catapulting himself a little further till he swooned into the viridescent waters.
He surfaced, shouted out motivation and stood by to cheerlead and/or lifeguard, whichever might be required. I stepped onto the tiny platform, holding on the handles and in a moment of not feeling Jane-like, I remember saying, “is it kinda crazy to be doing this?” His answer wasn’t direct, but reassured me “you’ve got this”. From his place at the water’s edge Jake added, “you’ve walked with Lions, this is nothing”.
How wonderful it is when others can offer a perspective that’s buried within you, a reminder of the different emotions that take us off autopilot and when revisited, open up a wider experience that extends into the present.
I leaned back a little to gain momentum and then sent my body hurling off the wreck, holding on to the handles while trying to slow down the scene, seeing the cotton candy clouds above me in the blue sky, the bright green of the palm trees swaying gently in the breeze, the tan beach sand that half-mooned to create this cozy little corner. The wreck was long gone. I could see my body vertically hanging by the line, forming a moving T shape as I quickly zipped down. I didn’t want to let go - it was so fun! But then, I saw the shadow of the trees and the shift in the water colour. I released the yellow handles, gulped in the sustenance that I’d need for the seconds submerged. The water was cool and ceremoniously spread like a requisite initiation into another world.
Even in the most adventurous moments, there seems to be an innate drive that overrides to ensure safety. Were it left to us, perhaps there are moments where we would we linger a little too long in suboptimal scenarios … perhaps, that’s something we’ve all somehow seen -physically, emotionally or otherwise.
I aimed for the sky as soon as I arrived. Head extended, I surfaced, filled with delight! Again, again, “I’m ready to redo this for the rest of the afternoon” I proclaimed. Instead, Paul graciously guided me on a snorkel tour around the wreck pointing out the ship’s anatomy and functional elements along with some commentaries on possible causes for its demise. A pro surfer, he swept down low, sneaking into the propeller only to resurface from another passageways downstream. How elegant can humans be, even in scenarios that we’re not necessarily designed to do deep dives in, on or through - some have graceful ways to navigate foreign arenas until ocean, mogul, mountain or the moon, they seem primed and pruned for that specific setting.
The coral was close and so too were the fish. Luckily the dangerous lion fish was hiding while the royal blue starfish lay as if on exhibition. We circled the wreck and near shore, we came upon the largest clams I’d seen - nearly the size of my forearms! With their undulating edges, as if tripping their sensors, they splayed open and close as Paul dangled sea debris. It was magical. And it was also time for lunch. And more so, it was my time to leave.
I gulped down the BBQ, changed and said swift sayonaras as the lads lingered on, showcasing their musical talents.
True to his word, Patrick had organized a separate boat, just for me to return earlier than the rest to the mainland. I waved goodbye, knowing that this day in the Solomon Islands sealed the sense that this was indeed, a special destination.
(Spoiler Alert - the story continues …)
May we choose to live life in a way so as to optimize the good stuff,